French perfumes: from past fragrances to future scents

Known as the inventors of non-oil based perfume, the ancient Persians ruled the ancient perfume trade for many years. Persian royalty often had their own “signature scents'' that were exclusively their own. As an example, King Xerxes is often pictured with Lily of the Valley flowers. It is also well-documented that the Persians enjoyed experimenting with fragrances and their distillation processes. This didn’t stop with the mere application of fragrances to one’s body, it spread into other aspects of noble life too - even as a harbinger to announce one’s presence. According to Herodotus when Xerxes wanted to pass through Dardanel strait, his troops "burned various kinds of sweet-smelling materials on the bridge, and branches of myrtle were scattered on it. Then, as the sun rose, Xerxes sprayed wine in water from a golden bowl. Everybody was crowned by means of flowers."

In Grecco-Roman times, perfumes assisted Rome’s transformation from a small farming village to a global epicenter. The ancient cult of Aphrodite, goddess of love, used perfumes and scents in their temples and in their worship services. However, perfume was not reserved solely for religious and spiritual purposes. Romans were estimated to use about 2,800 tons of imported frankincense and 550 tons of myrrh a year. These fragrances were used in their public bathhouses to scent the water, and in body care items such as balms, oils and perfumes for skin and hair. Indeed, the oldest perfume found, dubbed Eau du BC, was discovered in Cyprus. The scents were discovered inside what archaeologists believe was an enormous 43,000 sq ft perfume-making factory. "We were astonished at how big the place was," said Maria Rosa Belgiorno, the leader of the Italian archaeological team. "Perfumes must have been produced on an industrial scale." At least 60 distilling stills, mixing bowls, funnels and perfume bottles were found perfectly preserved at the site, which had been blanketed in the earth after a violent earthquake around 1850 BC. The perfumes were scented with extracts of lavender, bay, rosemary, pine or coriander and kept in tiny translucent alabaster bottles.

The ancient Chinese also indulged in fragrances. Not limited to one aspect of life, the Chinese infused many daily items with perfume - such as the ink they wrote with and the stationary they wrote on, making the writing experience even more of a sensory experience. They also used perfume in particular spaces such as homes - believing that certain scents had cleansing properties and could be used to aid with disinfection and purification. Oriental fragrances focused heavily on herbs and spices, many of which were also used for food and medicine.

The Crusaders brought fragrance making materials and techniques back to Europe around the 11th century A.D. With materials acquired in the far and middle eastern regions, they also brought along with them the techniques needed to produce more fragrances, such as those for distilling rose petals. During the bubonic plague, doctors would wear bird-like masks filled with herbs, spices and oils to ward off the sickness. The belief that scented oils and fragrant materials could eliminate the “stench of pestilence” helped grow the popularity of fragrance use in medieval Europe.

Indeed, perfume forms part of the insatiable ingredients of la Parisienne - good skin, great hair, and an excess of insouciant charm. And while much is said about her rumpled, lived-in shag of hair, how she picks her quirky yet classic outfits or what her beauty secrets are, not much is said about her scent. Among the most classic options is the iconic Chanel No. 5 (1921). Made almost a century ago, it has stood the test of time. Bringing to mind Marilyn Monroe, who wore it, with the House of Chanel - it is the ultimate iconic fragrance of femininity. Guerlain Shalimar (1925), another of the true icons is found wafting through theaters, and at the opera - it is very French. Not to mention that it is a statement bottle, and quite distinguished.

Yet more recently, there has been a shift into the adventure of fragrance, as NASA is bottling the scent of space in an Eau de Space kickstarter campaign. The history of the "Smell of Space" has been clouded behind various accounts of existence. Ever since the first spacewalk, astronauts were shocked by the lingering odor when returning back into the spacecraft. Some describe it as gunpowder, rum, fruit, seared steak, or a BBQ. The first space tourists also noted a pungent aroma once the hatch opened, 'like burnt cookies'. Indeed, decades ago, NASA asked specialists, including Steve Pearce, to develop the "smell of space" to help train astronauts before launch into orbit. NASA's goal of simulating space as closely as possible during training is to eliminate any surprises astronauts might experience as they venture past the atmosphere of the Earth. Partnering with award-winning perfumers, this initiative is not only just about creating a perfume. 

Abstract scents are nothing new. There are candles that are said to smell like your home state, limited-edition Burger King perfume, and a cologne for “walking with Christ.” Even alcohol-free fragrances are becoming more and more popular. Whatever your preferences within the realm of smells, there is something for you. When selecting a fragrance or signature scent, it is good to remember that much of our emotional response to smell is governed by association. 

The subjectivity of how this realm will be received is not something that the wearer can discern. What could be your favoured scent could indeed repel someone else with a different taste. Similar to one’s preferred palette in wine-tasting, the notes may be identifiable, but one’s individual favourite would differ from person to person. Indeed conjuring up a fragrance cocktail is something that Laurice Rahme, founder and CEO of fragrance house Bond No. 9, recommends doing. “The top note is what you smell right away when you spray it [and usually consists of] the sparkling and vivacious fresh notes,” Rahme says. “The middle note is the heart of the fragrance and is usually warmer and softer. And finally, the bottom note is what develops last and what stays with you for hours—long after the top notes have disappeared.” 

With an awareness of what each of these notes could be, one is able to create a custom scent that encapsulates one’s own personality. Having a general awareness of this process, and bringing it together with the help of a personal perfume creator, can turn your signature scent into something iconic. As Rhame reflects, “Very early in my career, Robert Salmon at L’Oreal told me two things that have been most important. First, always focus on creativity – all the rest will follow. Second, not to be afraid to be different. He always reminded me that it is important to be myself, not to follow, and not to look at what others are doing, but to find the path that is right for me.” In this way, forging ahead on your own path becomes an embodiment, that leaves those around you with a lingering smell of the memory of their experience of you.